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Marsh Walk
On one side of the raised embankment Brent geese grazed on the mud flats exposed by the low tide; on the other, Canada geese fed on the lush green grasses of the nature reserve while against the rich blue winter sky clouds of starlings swirled in picturesque patterns… It was a typical, and stunning, winter’s day on Farlington Marshes.
Words and Pictures • David Rose-Massom
A chill wind whipped across the raised footpath and although there was a low, winter sun sitting above the blue horizon it did little to warm the day; the only blessing on the weather front was that the wind was out of the west and not from the even colder east.
For those Solent Life readers who have not enjoyed the open air pleasures of this nature reserve on the edge of Portsmouth it is 125 hectares of coastal grazing and marshes midway between Portsmouth and Havant and just a stone’s throw from the ceaseless traffic of the A27. It is a flat, open landscape that is protected from the waters of Langstone Harbour by the sea wall that has the footpath gracing its summit. Although owned by Portsmouth Council it is run, magnificently, by Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust.
On the December day of my walk I had risen early in the hope of catching a glorious sunrise across the marshes, but a heavy covering of cloud allowed me to remain indoors with the morning paper and coffee. The clouds parted and the forecast was re-checked, maybe I could catch the sunset instead; but the weathermen said just a few hours of clear skies and it was obvious I had to seize the moment.
A great deal of work has gone on over recent years with rebuilding of the sea defences and on improving the car parking, so it is now a pleasant place to park with plenty of spaces. Although it is a flat, even and easy pathway it is not suitable for wheelchairs and stout, waterproof walking shoes or wellingtons are advisable for the 2.5 mile circular walk.
The grey skies of early morning had by now transformed into a crisp and bright blue sky, and on entering the sanctuary through the swing gate I got the first brushing of the keen wind as it was dipping over the embankment and ruffling both the water’s surface and the wildfowl’s feathers on the first of the many ponds and lagoons that are scattered across the reserve. On the outside of the sea wall the waters of Langstone had retreated with low tide, though it can be a much prettier walk at high tide, there is a more varied collection of waders and wildlife to be seen when the tide is out. There is also something gently spectacular at low tide about the sombre patterns made by the mud as the rivulets of receding water carve intricate patterns into the dark landscape.
It was against this black background that I had my first treat of the day, a little egret, its plumage a bright and flawless white, dipping for molluscs and small fish in the shallows. I am not a ‘bird watcher’ but do love to watch birds and after an hour I noted that my walk had travelled just a hundred yards or so; although I have covered ground slower on the M25 on a bad day!
As the egret took to the skies, I began walking again but within a few moments progress was halted as this stunning creature circled and flew overhead toward a pond on the sheltered side of the embankment. I was glad he drew my attention because as he landed a marsh harrier, a swift bird of prey, swooped low over the grasslands and disappeared from view as swiftly as he had arrived.
To the left a new set of steps had been cut into the bank that led down to a meandering grassy pathway through the bracken and cutting off one corner of the embankment walk. It appeared to be a bit of cheat taking a shortcut on such a lovely walk but those thoughts were soon put to rest as the path twisted left and right like a green river finding its own route. What it did offer though was some new vantage points cut into the hedgerows from where it was sheltered and had good views of the meadow part of the marshes and where carefree rabbits played and preened.
Farlington Marshes is one of those friendly walks and everyone passed had a warm smile of greeting or stopped to chat about the day and the wildlife; always a pleasing way to pass the time when out walking.
Again clouds made up of thousands of starlings, always an amazing sight at this time of year, swooped and swirled against the bright blue background of the skies.
The pathway rejoined the raised walkway and the wind had begun to have a little more bite, nipping at fingertips and earlobes, as the sun occasionally hid its bright light behind drifting, and ever-thickening, clouds.
Across the retreated waters from this side of the promontory was Hayling Island and an old, white bearded birdwatcher sat on a bench with his momentarily redundant telescope pointing uselessly out toward the island while he chewed on a lunchtime sandwich.
I noticed he continually kept clenching and unclenching his fists to keep out the cold. His was another of those brief and fleeting walking friendships as we chatted about each other’s experiences and sightings of the day.
While standing there Brent geese continually flew from the direction of Hayling and into the lagoon behind us, they flew in, in tight formation, a few at a time and crossed the embankment at head height just a few yards away from where we chatted before gliding to rest on the wind-roughened waters.
Walkers need to keep their eyes busy when taking this walk; too much attention paid to the lagoons, reed beds and the grasslands and you will miss the action in the skies; too much watching the aerial antics and fly-pasts of the birds and you will miss the wildlife on the meadow and water surfaces. My advice, just stay alert!
Viewed from the A27, and the hum of traffic never quite leaves you but after a few yards of walking you do forget it is there, Farlington may appear to be just a flat, featureless lump sticking out into Langstone Harbour but, the moment walkers begin to follow the circular path, it offers up all sorts of gems and jewels. It is rich in wildlife with scenery that, at both high and low tide, will take your breath away. It is one of the most beautiful walks on offer in Hampshire so don’t be deceived by its distant plainness.
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